Umpqua Hot Springs in Oregon | A Complete Guide

Like any good adventure, our morning started well before dawn, with a drive up a soggy forest service road.

Beads of rain were dripping from the pine needles and puddling on the ground as we crossed over the swollen North Umpqua River. On the other side we started our hike up the muddy slope, hoping for a chance to enjoy one of Oregon's most popular hot springs all by ourselves.

Umpqua is one of those places that embodies the Pacific Northwest, with its endless walls of evergreen coming at you in layers of gray fog, its mossy boulders, and what seems like a never ceasing drizzle.

Needless to say, the views here from your own natural hot tub are some of the best you'll find. And, you were going to get wet anyway, so the rain just adds to the ambiance.

We did make it up the hill in the mud.

And we did get this place all to ourselves, at least for a little while.

In this complete guide to Umpqua hot springs we're sharing with you everything we know, including how to get there, when's the best time to go, what you'll need to bring, and where to stay in the area.

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Getting to Umpqua Hot Springs

Umpqua hot springs is located, as the name would suggest, right in the heart of Umpqua National Forest. Drive times are roughly four hours from Portland, two hours from Bend, and one hour from Crater Lake National Park.

The trailhead for the hot springs is a short, albeit somewhat rugged, drive off Oregon Route 138.

Take Forest Road 34 north for 2.5 miles past Toketee Lake, then turn right onto Forest Road 3401. About 500 feet later you'll encounter a gate, which will be open seasonally.

If the gate is closed because of road conditions, this is where you park and make the 2.2 mile hike up to the hot springs. The extra mileage is mostly flat, so it won't add much difficulty to the hike, but you'll likely be walking in snow or mud.

Typically, the gate will be open from May to November and you can drive all the way to the trailhead, where you'll find a parking lot and vault toilet. The road becomes a bit rough beyond the gate, but during dry conditions it's doable in any 2WD vehicle. It's mostly flat, but expect to encounter some large potholes, rocks, and ruts.

Since this area is known for wet and snowy conditions, be prepared to either hike all the way in or bail yourself out. We'd also strongly recommend downloading offline maps and other information before heading out, since cell signal is not reliable out here.

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The Hiking Trail

Part of the adventure at Umpqua is making the short, but steep hike up to the hot springs pools.

It's only a 0.6 mile out-and-back trail with 147 feet of elevation, but you'll feel yourself climbing right from the beginning.

Before hitting the trail, you can pay the $5 day use fee at the on-site pay tube. But, if you display an America the Beautiful or Northwest Forest Pass the fee is covered. You can also pay online via Recreation.gov, but if that's your plan you'll want to get your pass before arriving at the springs, since you likely won't have any cell signal there.

From the parking lot, head to the far right hand side where you'll see the start of the trail, near the vault toilet.

Immediately, you'll cross a colorfully painted, and heavily graffitied, bridge. Then, the trail makes a direct ascent up to the pools. This is where proper footwear is important. The dirt can be either dry and loose or wet and slippery. At times there are handrails to assist you.

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The Pools

Once you've made the hike up, you'll be rewarded with beautiful cliffside views at the pools. They overlook the North Umpqua River, with channels of water carved into the colorful rocks, cascading down into the lower pools.

The milky blue water makes for a beautiful contrast against the terraced hillside and the evergreen trees all around.

We've been to plenty of natural hot springs in Oregon and around the PNW and these are definitely the most idyllic we've seen.

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You'll find about 6-8 pools of varying size and temperatures. There used to be a lean-to structure creating shelter over one of the pools, but it's no longer there.

Temperatures can be up to about 115 degrees (46 C), with the hottest being near the top and cooler pools below.

During our visit in early May, we found that the highest pools were actually very comfortable and we spent most of our time in those. They were also deep enough to submerge yourself or stretch out and enjoy a long soak.

You could easily fit 3-4 adults in most of them.

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We'll note here that nudity is pretty common at these hot springs, as it tends to be at more remote springs, so take that into consideration before your visit. Also, we should share that within the past several years there have been multiple reports online about illegal activity at or around the hot springs, including theft from vehicles and drug use.

We didn't personally see or experience anything that gave us concerns, but we also went right at sunrise when there was almost no one else there. It's worth mentioning, so just be on your guard and, if you notice anything alarming when you arrive at the trailhead, just turn around and leave.

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Best Time to Visit the Hot Springs

There are definitely some pros and cons during each season of the year.

Heavy spring rains make the road in difficult. They can also lead to mudslides or especially slippery conditions on the trail. That being said, we think late spring or fall are the best times to go, because shoulder seasons bring lighter crowds and milder temperatures.

Another advantage is that Umpqua hot springs sits up high and isn't susceptible to rising river levels or heavy rains, like some other PNW hot springs.

Summer will be the busiest time, especially during the weekends. There's also a higher risk, typically between June and October, for wildfires, which can shut off access to the springs or make for really poor air quality. Before going, check Inciweb for any ongoing wildfire threats in the area.

While the snowy views can be incredible during the winter, it requires some extra preparation to get here. Remember that the road will be closed, requiring an extra 2 miles of hiking each way. You may need to bring snowshoes and will definitely want to be extra careful while hiking up the hill. Pack the 10 essentials at a minimum, and be prepared with self-rescue equipment in your vehicle.

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Packing List

Here's our list of hot springs essentials you'll want to bring along.

A daypack and/or dry bag. We almost always bring a bag with us to hot springs. It frees up your hands while hiking and gives you a place to store things and keep them dry during your visit. If you don't already own a dry bag, we recommend these ones.

Cash or an interagency pass. You'll need $5 cash to visit Umpqua hot springs. Alternatively, you can display an interagency pass, such as the America the Beautiful (National Parks) pass which also gets you into a ton of other locations around the country.

Footwear with traction. These steep slopes and slippery rocks require some decent traction. We'd recommend sandals or water shoes for the pools, but you may want to hike up in boots. Whatever you do, don't wear flip flops. If you're going in the winter, bring some YakTrax.

A reusable water bottle. Soaking in the hot water can dehydrate you quickly, so don't overlook the basics.

Your swimsuit. Speaking of essentials.

A towel. We love Laek's adventure towels. They're quick drying, light, and packable. Plus they look really cool.

Warm dry clothes. Speaking from experience here: even though it's a pretty short walk to the car you'll want something warm to cover up with as soon as you get hit with a cool breeze. Loose fit clothing is also much easier to get on when you're wet.

A headlamp or flashlight. Heading out early in the morning or planning a sunset soak? Bring along an adequate source of light for the trip back to the car.

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Hot Springs Etiquette

Let's talk about proper hot springs etiquette. Though there's a small day use fee for access, the springs aren't looked after full time. It's our responsibility to be good stewards and to leave them better than we found them for the next visitor. That means not introducing anything into the water, including soap, shampoo, lotion, or sunscreen.

Generally speaking, practice Leave No Trace principles. Stick to the existing trail and don't trample on plant life.

If you're going to bring a beverage, leave the glass containers behind. Make sure to pack out anything you do bring in. Unfortunately we've found lots of trash and personal items left behind at just about every spring we've visited. To offset this, you can bring a bag and clean up any items you do find.

Use the bathroom before heading out to the springs. Fortunately, at Umpqua you'll find a vault toilet right at the parking lot and another primitive toilet part way up the trail, so there's no excuse.

It's possible you'll encounter some nudity. As an unofficial rule, the farther away the hot springs are, the more likely it is. Umpqua is definitely a spring where people go to soak in the nude.

Pets aren't allowed in the hot springs, so it's best to not bring them. If you must for some reason, please keep them leashed.

It all comes down to loving your neighbor. You may find yourself sharing the hot springs with others. Most people come to relax in a peaceful environment. Don't blast loud music or ruin someone else's experience. Simply put: enjoy the hot springs while being considerate of others.

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Where to Stay Near Umpqua Hot Springs

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Camping/boondocking options

You'll find plenty of camping options near Umpqua hot springs. We've listed some of the closest developed campgrounds below. We were able to find adequate boondocking sites during our stay in the area, so if you'd prefer to camp out for free that's also an option.

Toketee Lake Campground | Has 33 campsites, each with a picnic table and firepit. There are two vault toilets and a boat ramp with access to the reservoir. The cost is $10 per night, with reservations available June through Labor Day, first come, first served after that.

East Lemolo Campground | There are 15 primitive sites here with one vault toilet. Again, a boat ramp provides access to the water. The fee is $10 per night and reservations can be made on Recreation.gov.

Whitehorse Falls Campground | A small campground with only five sites, among the old growth Douglas Fir trees and next to a beautiful waterfall. $10 per night on a first come, first served basis.

Clearwater Falls Campground | Another first come, first served campground for $10 per night, with nine campsites and three vault toilets. Located at another scenic waterfall.

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Short term rentals

Rental properties are harder to come by in the area and you'll need to travel a little way outside the national forest. Here are a couple of recommendations we found:

This two bedroom cabin with riverfront views and a hot tub.

This three bedroom house is right along the river, about 30 minutes from the hot springs, and is rented out by the Steamboat Inn.

The Idleyld Lodge, a rustic bed and breakfast, lists their rooms on VRBO.

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Other Lodging

Umpqua's Last Resort | Cabins, glamping tents, tiny homes, and 15 full hookup RV sites.

Steamboat Inn | Multiple suites, cabins, and cottages with a restaurant sourcing local ingredients.

Diamond Lake Resort | Plenty of different lodging options, with on-property dining, and rentals to get out on the water or into the mountains.

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Other Things to Do Nearby

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Visit Some Waterfalls

Oregon Route 138, or the Rogue-Umpqua Scenic Byway, is also nicknamed the "Highway of Waterfalls." You can find more than a dozen in the area, with some of the best in the immediate vicinity of Umpqua hot springs.

Don't miss Toketee, Watson, Whitehorse, or Lemolo Falls. Some require a short or moderate hike and others are located just beyond the parking area.

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Crater Lake National Park

Crater Lake is a sometimes overlooked park that's about an hour away from Umpqua hot springs. It's the deepest lake in the United States and home to some stunning views.

During warmer months you can simply drive the 33 mile rim loop and enjoy the pull offs. And even if there's snow, which can linger well into summer, you can rent snowshoes and poles from the visitor center and go on a unique hike.

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Fly Fishing

The Umpqua is home to some of the best and most challenging steelhead fishing in the world. Local fishing guides can take you into some lesser known spots, or you can choose a spot along the Umpqua River, Rogue River, or even Diamond Lake for a relaxing day of angling.

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