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A cloud of dust billows off the rear of our campervan as it plods along, kicking up bits of gravel along yet another backroad. As we pull in, the cloud settles and drifts, leaving a haze in the setting sun across a mostly barren landscape.
There isn't much else around, except for two other campers and the steam rising off an inviting pool of hot water just steps away from our campsite.
In stark contrast to some of western Oregon's best hot springs, where the pools are surrounded by lush green forest, Willow Creek is in the Oregon high desert, a beautiful but equally dry and scrubby environment that presents its own challenges to visitors.
These springs are remote, so it'll take some self-reliance and proper planning to experience them. But that comes with a pay off: being among few other visitors and having this peaceful and unblemished place to yourself.
If you're looking for a quiet and relaxing getaway that involves just the right amount of adventure, keep reading on for our full guide to Willow Creek Hot Springs.
How to Get to Willow Creek Hot Springs
Being so remote, it'll require a bit of determination to get out to Willow Creek Hot Springs. The closest town (and we use the term 'town' very loosely here) is Fields, 34 miles away. There you'll find little more than a general store with a single gas pump.
Beyond that, it's a few hours in any direction to a well populated area. It's just over 3 hours from Boise, 4.5 hours from Bend, Oregon and 7.5 hours from Portland.
Any of those routes will eventually take you to US-95, where you'll head south toward McDermitt, then turn right onto Whitehorse Ranch Lane.
Side note: you may see the springs referred to elsewhere as Whitehorse Ranch Hot Springs, a local name that seems to have fallen out of use.
The road is gravel, but it's not in terrible shape.
After about 24 miles, veer left on a road sometimes called Willow Butte Loop or Fifteen Mile Road, which will take you directly to the hot springs and campground. This last 2.5 miles is in worse condition than the rest of the unpaved road, with large potholes and patches of mud. It can definitely become impassable in wet weather.
In addition to bringing self-rescue equipment, just in case you get stuck, be sure to check and know the weather forecast before heading out. You should also download offline maps before going, since you'll be without cell service for a majority of your time in eastern Oregon.
Soaking in the Hot Springs
The hot springs at Willow Creek are simple and rustic. There are two pools, each large enough to comfortably fit several adults.
The smaller of the two pools is closer to the source of the spring and therefore hotter, averaging 102 degrees F (39C). There's a man-made stone and mortar wall dividing this hot side from the large pool, which averages between 85 and 95 F (29 - 35C).
During our visit we also found that the smaller pool had much better water clarity, with a silty and rocky bottom that was comfortable to walk on. You could see all the way through the shallow water. The large pool has a muddier bottom and we couldn't see through the water.
The different pool temperatures are perfect for a visit during hot summer days though, because you could switch over into the cooler water to take a break or even sit on the dividing wall.
The pools are easy to get in and out of because there are obvious entry/exit points on both sides and some larger rocks for stepping down onto. However, we'd still highly recommend some sandals or water shoes to protect your feet, since the rocks at hot springs are usually very slippery and can easily cut or scrape you. Ask us how we know!
Camping at Willow Creek Hot Springs
The Campground
There are a handful of campsites within walking distance of the pools, designated by concrete picnic tables. That makes staying for a weekend or a couple of nights convenient. The sites are all free and available on a first come, first served basis.
But don't expect much else in the way of amenities. There's a vault toilet nearby as well, but it's not very well maintained. This is one of the many times we're glad we put a full bathroom in our campervan!
From the parking area that's directly beside the springs you can find some unmarked hiking trails leading up a small hill. At the top you'll get a nice panoramic view of the desert, littered with sagebrush and lichen covered rocks.
When visiting free, nearly undeveloped sites like this it's especially important for all of us to leave as little impact as possible. We've included some tips on hot springs etiquette below, but please remember to pack out all your trash and leave the campsites better than you found them.
Boondocking
A second option for staying in the area is to boondock nearby. The hot springs are located on BLM land and much, but not all, of the surrounding area is as well. Generally, you're allowed to boondock on BLM land for up to 14 nights.
Since the campground is free, there's very little reason to seek out another place to stay, unless the designated sites all happen to be occupied. In which case, find a site off the BLM road that's already been disturbed and just remember to practice Leave No Trace principles.
Tips for Visiting Willow Creek Hot Springs
The Best Time to Visit
The best time of year to visit the hot springs is in the late summer or early fall. High temperatures are beginning to come down and there's very little rain, meaning the roads should be dry and easily drivable. As with pretty much all natural hot springs, go on a weekday if possible and very early in the morning if you want to avoid crowds.
Willow Creek is in Oregon's high desert region, which means there can be some temperature extremes. Be careful visiting at the height of summer, when it can be dangerously hot before even getting in the water.
As with all deserts, the temperature drops at night, so you can expect chilly conditions no matter the time of year.
Between November and May is when the area sees the most rain, but even then it averages less than one inch per month. When the rain does come it can turn the road to the hot springs into a sticky mess. For planning purposes that just means checking the weather forecast right before you go and being well prepared or having alternate plans.
Etiquette
Here are a few friendly reminders about etiquette when it comes to soaking in hot springs:
As mentioned earlier, practice Leave No Trace principles. Stick to existing paths when walking or driving and don't trample the plant life. Before getting into the water, make sure you're not introducing anything like soap, shampoo, lotion, or sunscreen.
Leave the glass containers behind. If you want to bring a drink, make sure it's in a reusable bottle or a can. Pack out anything you do bring in. Unfortunately we've found lots of trash and personal items left behind at just about every spring we've visited. To offset this, you can bring a bag and clean up any items you do find.
Use the bathroom before heading for a soak. Fortunately, there's a vault toilet very close to the hot springs at Willow Creek.
It's possible.. no, actually here's it's likely that you'll encounter some nudity. The unofficial rule is that the farther away the hot springs are, the more likely it is. Willow Creek is very remote.
Pets, for more than one reason, shouldn't be in the hot spring pools. If you're traveling with them, please keep them leashed.
It all comes down to loving your neighbor. You may find yourself sharing the hot springs with others. Most people come to relax in a peaceful environment. Don't blast loud music or ruin someone else's experience. Simply put: enjoy the hot springs while being considerate of others.
Packing List
Here are the essentials you'll want to consider bringing along for your next soak. You can see all our personal recommendations on our Hot Springs Essentials List.
Sandals or water shoes. Something with tread for stepping on rough or slippery rocks, and walking to and from your car. We don't normally recommend flip flops at hot springs, but there's no difficult terrain here. If you're careful on the rocks, you'd be alright going barefoot in the pools if you want.
A reusable water bottle and plenty of water. Soaking in the hot water can dehydrate you quickly, so don't overlook the basics.
Your swimsuit. Speaking of basics.
A towel. We love our quick drying and packable towels. They do a great job and we don't have to haul around bulky bath or beach towels.
Warm dry clothes. Speaking from experience: no matter how short of a distance you are from the car or campsite, you'll be thankful for an extra layer or two when you get out of the hot water and are hit by a cold breeze. Loose clothing also goes over wet skin a lot easier.
A headlamp or flashlight. The walk to and from the pools is short and it'd be almost impossible to get lost, but if you're going late at night or super early in the morning, it doesn't hurt to have a headlamp to help you see.
A bag. We almost always bring a bag with us to hot springs. Even somewhere like Willow Creek, where you'll just be walking to and from your car, it gives you a place to keep your things clean, dry and together, so they're not spread out everywhere. If you don't already own a dry bag, we recommend these ones.
Other Things to do Nearby
Part of the appeal to Willow Creek is that, well, there isn't a whole lot going on out here. It's a great place to get away from everything else and just spend a few days literally soaking in the natural surroundings.
That said, there are a few attractions we'd recommend that are either along the route or could be added into a longer itinerary if you're looking for some extra adventure.
Hart Mountain Hot Springs & Antelope Refuge
If you enjoy Willow Creek, then you'll absolutely love Hart Mountain Hot Springs. They're located inside the National Antelope Refuge near Plush, about three hours to the west.
Yet another natural hot spring surrounded by free camping, Hart Mountain is significantly larger and slightly more developed. There are a total of three pools and plenty of room to spread out in your camper or RV.
Alvord Hot Springs
We tend to stick to the more rustic, undeveloped hot springs but, if you're looking for a more accommodating atmosphere, check out Alvord Hot Springs one hour north of Willow Creek. It's a family run destination, with bunkhouses, campsites, a small store and hot springs pools.
Timber & Leslie Gulch
Along the eastern border between Oregon and Idaho is a vast and nearly untouched landscape called the Owyhee Canyonlands. One of the highlights is an incredibly picturesque stretch called Leslie Gulch or (erroneously across social media) Timber Gulch.
It will be an even more adventurous escape than going out to Willow Creek, but it's definitely worth the effort.
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